HowStuffWorks Answers Your Gardening Questions
In this article, HowStuffWorks answers your gardening questions. You want to plant a garden or cultivate an enviable lawn, but you also want to ensure that the money you invest in it is well spent, right?To create a beautiful landscape, it's important to know a little about agriculture. You don't have to have a PhD in the subject, but you should be aware of those elements that will guarantee you the best success. From the initial planning stages to maintenance, we've asked the tough questions and given you the simple, straightforward answers.
 The pH of soil should be around 6.5 for best growing. |
Q: How should I raise the soil pH from a 5.0 to 6.5?
A: Apply lime in granular form as ground limestone at a rate of 4 to 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Repeat in about six months; season is unimportant since lime (calcium) won't burn the plants. It takes a year or so to raise the pH to the desired level, and gradual application works better than one heavy treatment. Have the soil tested again the following year for further recommendations.
Q: What are the most common lawn weeds about which I should be concerned?
A: Naturally, the weeds you'll deal with will be different from those in
another region, but general problems will be similar. The best weed control is
prevention. A thick, healthy lawn has no bare soil where weeds can become a
problem. Broad-leaved weeds -- like dandelion and plantain -- and annual grassy
weeds -- like crabgrass -- can be kept under control with herbicides. Annual weeds
will die in winter, scattering thousands of seeds for next year's onslaught.
Use a preemergenct herbicide in spring to prevent those seeds from sprouting.
Q: How should I eliminate existing moss to rejuvenate the lawn?
A: The presence of moss indicates lack of sunlight and poor soil. Soils where
mosses grow tend to be acidic, compacted, poorly aerated, and low in fertility.
Remove the moss and freshly prepare the soil. Raise the pH with lime and add a
complete fertilizer. Deeply cultivate the soil, adding organic matter and sand
if necessary to improve drainage and aeration. Reseed or install sod of a
shade-resistant turf species.
Q: When should I cut back my ornamental grasses?
A: Part of the beauty of ornamental grasses is their attractiveness in a winter
garden -- the seed stalks and foliage can be enjoyed throughout the winter. Then,
just before the grasses begin their new growth, cut the dead part down.
Cool-season varieties begin their growth in late winter; warm-season varieties
begin when the soil has warmed significantly. To prevent damage to the emerging
leaves, cut back the grasses before your plants break dormancy.
Q: How can I sketch my property to scale?
A: First, make a non-scaled sketch of your area, noting the dimensions of
existing details. Next, use graph paper to sketch the plan to scale using each
square to represent a certain distance (for example, one square equals one
foot). Photocopy your sketch so you're able to try several different ideas
without having to repeat the process. Remember that plants will grow, so sketch
your layout as it would look, say, 10 years from now. By using scale during the
planning process, you'll get a better perspective on your garden design.
Q: When shopping for a building lot, what characteristics should be considered
to make my landscape planning easier?
A: First, consider your outdoor living areas. Do you need a large, flat area
for the children to play? If so, don't buy a steep lot. Perhaps you'll want to
plant a vegetable garden, or want another area that requires full sun; a wooded
lot might not suit your needs. Use a list of your household's requirements for
the property to determine if the lot can fill those needs.
Q: It will be years before our trees grow large enough to shade our deck. Is
there anything to do in the meantime?
A: A simple open trellis or arbor overhead will provide support for fast
growing vines, annuals such as morning glories, or perennials such as clematis.
An overhead structure identifies a comfortable living space while affording
protection from the sun. Be sure to build the structure high enough for
comfort, while realizing that cascading vines will take space.
Q: I need to make our backyard more private. Should I enclose the yard with a
privacy fence?
A: Unless you need to keep people out, or keep children and pets in, you
probably don't need the entire yard enclosed. Strategically placed sections or
panels of fence in combination with small trees and large shrubs, for example,
make for a more aesthetically pleasing atmosphere. An enclosure will make the
yard seem small. Take advantage of neighboring trees and gardens to make your
yard feel larger.
Q: Is it important to collect the grass clippings when cutting the lawn?
A: Remove excessive amounts of clippings from tall grass, as they will smother
and kill the grass underneath. A few species of turfgrass produce a heavy
thatch buildup (matted, dead grass) that can prevent water, fertilizer, and air
from getting into the soil, thus weakening the health of the lawn. Regular
cutting will usually produce only light clippings that will quickly deteriorate -- adding
valuable nutrients back into the lawn.
Q: What time of year should I start a new lawn from seed?
A: It depends on the type of grass you plan to grow. Most likely, if you're
planting seed, you'll be using a cool-season grass. It's best to prepare the
soil at the end of the summer and sow seed about six weeks before the first
average frost in your area. The seed will sprout during the remaining warm
weeks and continue to develop deep roots through autumn and into winter. By
mid-spring the lawn will be well established.
Q: Does it really matter whether I use fresh barnyard wastes and compost as
opposed to old, seasoned organic matter?
A: Microorganisms that break down the vegetative matter use much of the
available nutrients (especially nitrogen) from the soil. Material will
decompose in a compost pile faster than if the matter is directly cultivated
into the soils, as the microorganisms also need air. If fresh organic matter is
used in or on top of the garden, you will need to apply additional nitrogen to
protect plantings from a nutrient deficiency.
On the next page, read more about gardening your questions. From selecting a garden sight to purchasing plants, we've got the answers that will help you grow a lovely garden.
Want to find out more about growing a flower garden, a houseplant, or a vegetable garden? Check out:
Gardening Questions
These basic gardening questions and answers will have you successfully planting in no time. Become familiar with the language of gardening, and learn how to select plants that are appropriate for your gardening style and that will thrive in your environment. If you're a beginning gardener, reading up on these questions and answers is a good place to start building the landscape of your dreams. Good shears will last a long time and ensure proper plant growth. |
Q: Which type of pruning shears is best?
A: There are basically two types of pruning shears: anvil and scissors. A good
quality pair of shears should last many years. An advantage the scissors type
has over the anvil is that it won't crush the stem while cutting. Good shears
can be taken apart for sharpening, and replacement parts can be easily obtained
for high quality models. Long-handled lopping shears are helpful when thinning
shrubs and cutting larger stock than hand pruners can cut.
Q: Although I understand the benefits of using compost in the garden, I will
probably never be disciplined enough to build and maintain a pile. What can I
use instead?
A: Many municipalities have old piles of leaf mold -- from autumn
collection -- that is free for the taking. Arm yourself with a few plastic bags
and a shovel and head for the lot. Another option is purchasing composted
manure from a stable or barnyard. You can also buy dehydrated manure or compost
and incorporate it into the soil as you would with fresh compost.
Q: My neighbors have no problem growing a beautiful camellia, but after many
failures, I've stopped planting them. Their soil seems the same as mine.
A: The successful camellia is probably growing in a microclimate that may not
exist on your property. A protected microclimate is a good situation to try
marginally hardy plant species, since it's protected from extreme daily
temperature changes and winter winds. Visit your neighbors' site and try to determine
the origin of the unique location -- you may have a site that is equally
suitable.
Q: I'm looking for a particular cultivar that I can only find through mail
order. Is it safe to buy plants from another temperature zone?
A: If you know the type of plant will grow in your climate, you should have no
problem -- if it's a spring purchase. If the nursery's zone is warmer than yours,
specify a safe ship date for your area. The newly installed plant will have all
summer to acclimate to your seasons, and should survive the upcoming winter.
Q: There are a bewildering number of varieties available of the kind of plant I'm looking for. How do I make a wise decision as to which variety to purchase?
A: Sometimes the color of the bloom is the only difference in variety, making
the choice one of personal preference. Other times the differences are more
drastic, such as a resistance to a disease that may be prevalent in your area;
and still other times the difference may be in the ultimate height, width, or
form of the plant. Read nursery catalogs and talk to garden center salespeople
to determine which varieties interest you and best suit your conditions.
Q: What does it mean to have "well-drained soil"?
A: Although it's necessary for your soil to have water available for your
plants, too much water held for long periods of time will disturb the balance
of air that is necessary for healthy root growth of most plant species. Without
air in the soil, many plants will likely drown. Loam, a balance of sand, clay,
and organic matter, is usually well-drained. Heavily compacted clay soils are
often poorly drained.
Q: Being a weekend gardener, I'm not sure I want to spend the energy necessary
to double-dig my new perennial bed. What are the advantages?
A: Double-digging provides a better quality soil for the deep roots that many
perennials develop. Remember, perennials are long-lived plants, and the time
and effort you use to develop a perfect growing environment is well spent.
Imagine your investment withering up a few years after planting because the
soil 12 inches under the surface is too compact for the roots to develop
properly!
Q: How can proper site and plant selection make insect management easier?
A: There are many types of landscape plants that are virtually pest free (or at
least pest resistant). Find out which pests are a problem in your area, and
steer clear of plants that attract such pests. Additionally, a plant that is
growing out of its optimal environment -- full sun as opposed to partial
shade -- may not be able to support the beneficial insect predators that normally
keep the pests at bay.
Q: I have seen collections of perennials, trees, and bulbs advertised so inexpensively that it's hard to resist purchase. Are such bargains worth the price?
A: Beware of such bargains -- you get what you pay for. The trees, shrubs, and
perennials are often no more than rooted cuttings, six inches tall -- and
sometimes they're species that won't thrive in your climatic conditions. Bulb
collections are often an inferior quality of small size or outdated cultivars;
they may take several years to become large enough to bloom.
Q: How do I select which shade tree is the right one for our property?
A: Determine the height, width, and density of shade needed for the site. Also
decide how important the rate of growth is to your plan. Consider the
environmental conditions -- temperature zone, soil type, light exposure of your
proposed tree site, and how much pest control you are willing to use. Take this
information and compile a list of possibilities -- with help from catalogs or by
talking to local gardeners. Then go to a local garden center or botanical
garden to see your choices.
On the next page, discover the answers to many commonly asked gardening questions, and learn about optimal planting conditions.
Want to find out more about growing a flower garden, a houseplant, or a vegetable garden? Check out:
Commonly Asked Gardening Questions
Commonly asked gardening questions frequently focus on how best to cultivate a garden. When should you plant? Where should you plant? And how should you plant? We've answered your commonly asked gardening questions to help you cultivate a lovely garden, so smile. Things are looking rosy.
 Zinnias add a pop of color to a garden. |
Q: I have several large patio containers of trees and shrubs growing with mixed
annuals. How do I overwinter these containers?
A: Remove the annuals from the containers at the end of the season. Move the containers
to a location protected from the warming sun and winter wind. Insulate the soil
with mulch -- compost, bark, or leaves -- and make sure the containers receive
adequate water during dry spells. Try planting some spring flowering bulbs in
place of the annuals to enjoy some early season color.
Q: I have trouble growing flowers in my shade garden. Are there any colorful
shade-tolerant plants that I can use?
A: Aside from using perennials with some bloom, and contrasting color and
texture, a few annuals will thrive in the shade given proper moisture and
nutrients. The most shade-tolerant annuals that add color all season are coleus
(grown for colorful foliage), wax begonias, and impatiens, which are available
in a host of colors. Depending on the depth of shade, still other annuals, such
as ageratum, sapphire flower, caladiums, and sweet alyssum, may be successful.
Q: When can I safely plant annuals in the spring?
A: From your local Extension Office, find out the date of your area's average
last frost. After that date, planting should be safe; but remember, this date
is an average and you can expect a later frost some years. When you purchase
annuals, condition them to the sunlight, wind, and night temperature for
several days before planting them in the garden. Be prepared to protect them
from a late-season freeze.
Q: My hanging baskets of annuals look great each spring when I purchase them.
By midsummer they look dried up and have few blooms. How can I keep them fresh
and full of flowers?
A: Follow three basic principles when growing flowering baskets -- water,
fertilize, and groom. The soil mass in a basket is very small -- it heats up and
dries out quickly -- so daily watering may be needed. Fertilize the plant with a
liquid balanced fertilizer every two weeks. And groom your plant often.
Deadhead and pinch back leggy growth to promote heavier flowering and
branching.
Q: What should be done this fall to prepare a bed of annuals for next spring?
A: When this year's plants have died from frost, cut them to the ground and, to
prevent this year's pests from overwintering, remove all debris from the area.
Have your soil tested now -- add lime if necessary but wait until spring to
fertilize. Cultivate organic matter into the soil and apply a fresh layer of
mulch to prevent winter weeds from germinating. Your bed should be ready for
spring planting.
Q: Is it possible to save any of my annuals through the winter for next year's
plantings?
A: Several types of annuals overwinter well in the house. Coleus, geraniums,
impatiens, and wax begonias hold nicely as houseplants. Dig up the plant with
as much of its root system intact as possible and pot it, using quality potting
soil. Cut the plant back by 40 to 50 percent, leaving some foliage on the
plant. In the house, provide the plants with as much light as possible, keeping
the soil slightly moist.
Q: I'd like to grow annuals for cutting and arranging. What types make the best
cut flowers and where should I plant them?
A: Look for varieties with tall stems in the colors you'd like to use for
arranging. Many species of annuals are available in varieties that have
different characteristics. Some will be short and bushy for edging and massing,
while others will be tall -- excellent for cutting. It is a good idea to grow
them in the back of the border or design a bed especially for cutting. A row or
more in a sunny vegetable garden, for example, serves as an ideal place to grow
cut flowers.
Q: What is the best way to stake my tall and floppy annuals?
A: Use materials that will be unobtrusive in the garden. Natural brush and
twigs blend in well with garden plants; green bamboo stakes are available at
garden centers. It is best to set up the stakes during planting time so the
roots are not damaged during installation. Tie the plants loosely with string,
plastic wrap, or even leaves of tall ornamental grasses. Avoid wire ties, as
they easily cut flower stems.
Q: Which annuals require the least amount of maintenance time?
A: Choose varieties that will not require deadheading or much additional
irrigation. Some annuals drop their flowers naturally while others put energy
into seed production, and must be groomed for continual bloom. Ageratum,
alyssum, begonias, dusty miller, impatiens, and vinca are a few self-cleaning
annuals. Ageratum, marigolds, ornamental peppers, portulaca, and vinca are
among the drought-tolerant species. Prepare your soil well with organic matter
(such as wood chips, leaves, or compost) to increase the intervals between
waterings and to save maintenance time.
Q: It seems that the only bedding plants available are short varieties suited
for the front of the border. What can I do to get some height for the back of
the border?
A: A greater selection of varieties is available through mail-order seed
catalogs. Some companies sell a large selection of starter plants as well as
seeds, but you may enjoy starting your own seedlings. Start small-seeded
varieties on a sunny windowsill several weeks before planting outside. Many
varieties can be sown directly in the garden.
Q: Do you have any suggestions to help encourage children to enjoy
gardening?
A: Success is the best motivator. Encourage children to have a garden space of
their own, but work with them to ensure success. Grow plants from large seeds,
or use transplants for immediate color. Grow varieties like morning glories and
gourds -- quick growing vines which produce abundant flower or fruit -- and
colorful zinnias, or balsam. Encourage the child to collect seeds to save for
next season. Most of all, go out and enjoy the garden together!
On the next page, learn how to maintain your plants so you can enjoy them year after year.
Want to find out more about growing a flower garden, a houseplant, or a vegetable garden? Check out:
Gardening Questions Answered
We've got your gardening questions answered right here. If you have questions about perennials, bulbs, and fertilizers, we've got answers. Find out the difference between inexpensive and expensive plants, how to protect your plants, and how to coax your plants to bloom. With this information, you'll be armed with knowledge to help you grow a beautiful garden. Crocus bulbs will flower after they have established their root system. |
Q: It's late winter and I've not yet planted the spring-flowering bulbs
purchased last fall. Can they still be planted?
A: Spring flowering bulbs need the winter to establish new root systems and to
finish development to bloom. If the bulbs are not spongy -- an indication of a
dying bulb -- you should still be able to grow the bulbs; just don't expect
flowering the first year. Care for the plants with fertilizer and regular
waterings. If the plant is able to build back its strength, it will probably
flower the following season.
Q: It's mid-winter and my bulbs and some perennials are beginning to emerge.
Should I cover the plants to protect them from the elements?
A: Bulbs and perennials usually begin their growth at the right time, and are
prepared for additional cold weather. Remove a bit of the mulch from around the
plant. This will cool the soil and slow some of the growth. Just allow the
plants to grow naturally and they'll bloom when the time is right.
Q: When is the best time to dig and separate bulbs?
A: The foliage of most spring bulbs will naturally turn yellow about six weeks
after flowering. This is a good indication that the plant has produced and
stored enough energy to survive and bloom next season. When leaves have begun
to turn yellow, dig deeply to remove the entire clump. Gently shake the soil
from the bulbs and break individual bulbs from the clump. Immediately replant
the bulbs.
Q: After several years in a sunny location and well-drained soil, my peony
hasn't bloomed. What's wrong?
A: Your plant is probably planted too deeply. Dig the plant in early fall and
inspect the roots for any unusual damage. Adjust the pH to between 5.5 to 6.5.
Replant so that the crown -- the part where the buds form -- is one to two inches
below the soil surface. Water deeply and apply mulch so the plant can
reestablish itself.
Q: When do I divide clumping perennials such as coralbells and Japanese iris?
A: Most perennials divide easily in fall, if done early enough for the roots to
establish themselves several weeks before the ground freezes. Late blooming
types can be divided in spring, providing there is ample rain or irrigation to
encourage rapid rejuvenation of the root systems. Expect a reduction of
flowering until the plants become reestablished in their new positions.
Q: What is the difference between inexpensive perennials grown from seed and
the more expensive ones grown from divisions?
A: Some perennials are easily grown from seed, and produce flowers within a
year or two. However, named cultivars -- plants with specific desired
characteristics -- may only be reproduced through cuttings or by division from
the parent plant, which displays the unique features. Because it takes longer
to produce quantities of plants by division than by seed, production of these
cultivars is usually more expensive.
Q: How can I keep spreading perennials like Monarda from invading my more timid
plants?
A: Control invasive perennials by forming a barrier around the parent plant. The
barrier needs to be set in the ground deep enough to prevent the rhizomes from
growing beneath it. Use a large black nursery container with its bottom cut
out; sink it in the ground to about 1/2 inch higher than soil level. Plant in the center of the pot and disguise
the rim with a light layer of mulch.
Q: Most of the perennials have finished blooming, and I'd like to clean up the
garden. How far down can I cut the plants?
A: It's important to leave the crown of the plant undisturbed so the basal
leaves can continue to grow and produce food for the plant's winter survival.
Cut flowering stalks to about four inches. The remaining stubble will identify
the plants' locations so that you won't disturb them during bulb planting or
winter gardening.
Q: What is the best method of fertilizing a perennial border of many different
types of plants?
A: If the soil is properly prepared with organic matter, and the bed is
mulched, only an annual application of complete fertilizer is needed. In early
spring, when the plants actively begin growth, sprinkle fertilizer on the soil.
Apply by hand to avoid fertilizer settling on the leaves. Use the directions on
the bag to calculate the amount to apply.
Q: Why do some of my "full sun" selections of perennials burn up in my
southern garden?
A: Garden books categorize light requirements of perennials according to the
average light intensity of North American gardens. Plants that need full sun in
New England may need protection from the hot afternoon sun in Georgia. Use references
to guide your planning, but the best advice comes from experimenting with
different species under various light conditions. Also, the use of mulch will
aid in keeping soil temperatures lower.
On the next page, learn all about how to plant and care for trees, including your old Christmas tree.
Want to find out more about growing a flower garden, a houseplant, or a vegetable garden? Check out:
Tree Questions
If you have questions about trees, we've got answers. Trees require different care and maintenance than plants. They also develop different symptoms of illness. If you want to know how to plant, prune, and protect your trees, read on. Only female holly produces berries. |
Q: Why does my wisteria never bloom? It grows so quickly that it must be pruned
often.
A: You may be pruning off next year's flower buds. Encourage short side shoots
for flower buds by partially pruning the longest side branches. To avoid
excessive growth, do not fertilize wisteria. Wisteria blooms best with ample
exposure to the sun. Root pruning may shock the plant into flowering -- in June,
use a spade to cut a six-inch deep circle about two feet from the base of the
plant.
Q: When should I prune my trees?
A: Pruning shade and ornamental trees not only adds to the aesthetics of the
landscape, but prolongs the life of the tree. Prune to thin out branches in
late winter when the sap is rising. The sap "bleeding" helps prevent
disease organisms from entering the wound and the tree will heal quickly at
this time of year. Limbs that need to be removed because of storm or disease
damage can be pruned any time of year.
Q: To receive more light into the yard, should I have the trees topped?
A: Topping not only disfigures a tree aesthetically, but drastically degrades
its long-term health. The large, open wounds that topping creates will not heal
completely, allowing easy entrance to disease-causing organisms. Rapid, dense,
shoot growth (called suckers) grow to the original height of the tree,
consequently defeating the purpose of topping. The new growth will not be as
structurally sound as normal branching, becoming more susceptible to storm
damage.
Q: I have several hydrangeas, all of which are the same kind. Why are some blue
flowering while others are pink?
A: The availability of aluminum in the soil, determined by the soil's pH,
determines the color of your type of hydrangea. If the pH is high (7.0 or
above), the flowers will be pink. Blue flowers develop from acidic soil (4.5 to
5.5), and purplish flowers in between. To ensure blue flowers, lower the pH
with a sulfur-based product. Raise the pH with lime for pink blossoms.
Q: Can a live Christmas tree be planted after the holidays?
A: Yes. Prepare the hole well before the ground freezes. Amend the loose soil
as you dig so it will be ready for planting, and store the soil where it will
not freeze. Choose a tree with a tight, solid root-ball and wrap the ball in
plastic to keep moist while it's in the house. A cool room for no more than a
week is advised. Plant the tree as soon as possible; mulch and water well.
Q: What causes the bark of young trees to crack, and how can it be corrected?
A: The vertical cracking, or sunscald, appears on the southwest side of the
trunk; where the tree heats up on warm, sunny, winter days, and freezes rapidly
when the sun sets. Young trees are most prone to sunscald because of their thin
bark. These cracks provide a path for diseases and insects. Sunscald can be
prevented by wrapping the trunk in a protective covering for the winter.
Expandable, white plastic tree wraps are available at garden centers.
Q: What makes some hollies produce berries when other don't?
A: Hollies are either male or female; only the females produce berries. A
pollen-producing male plant needs to be growing nearby to pollinate a female,
otherwise berries will not form. Although some species can pollinate other
species, it's generally necessary to have both a male and a female of the same
type. Other reasons for lack of fruit include a shortage of sunlight where the
female is planted, or severe drought while berries are forming.
Q: Is it possible to transplant trees from the woods to the yard?
A: Although it's possible, the success rate is low. Forest tree roots are quite
entangled with other trees; either with wide-spreading shallow roots, or a deep
taproot, depending upon species. The tree is already acclimated to the woods
exposure. Both the shock of transplanting and the loss of roots often kill the
tree. Nursery-grown trees have been tended by root pruning to encourage the
development of a small but concentrated root system, making transplanting more
successful.
Q: Is it possible that road salt is killing the shrubs at the end of my
driveway?
A: Salt toxicity is common in areas where deicing salts are used in winter. The
worst damage occurs right where the salt is applied, near roads and walks.
Plants will display general dieback, yellowish foliage, and weak growth. Wash
salt residue from plants with a hose, and soak the soil to leach the salt from
the beds. Don't use salts around the home. Some fertilizers can be safely used
to melt ice and will not harm nearby plants.
Q: Is it necessary to stake newly planted trees?
A: If the crown of the tree is relatively large compared to the size of the
root ball, staking may be needed to prevent the tree from tilting as it
settles. Be sure the root ball sits on a firm soil base. Tie with flat plastic
guy string or wire covered in old garden hose to protect the bark from being
cut or wounded. Remove stakes and wires as soon as the tree roots become
established. Evergreen trees do not usually require staking.
Want to find out more about growing a flower garden, a houseplant, or a vegetable garden? Check out: