![]() Apply pressure-sensitive types of weatherstripping only on the friction-free parts of a wooden window. |
Pressure-sensitive adhesive-backed foam is the easiest weatherstripping to apply, and it is quite inexpensive. Available in both rubber and plastic, adhesive-backed foam comes in rolls of varying lengths and thicknesses. Pressure-sensitive types of weatherstripping can be used only on the friction-free parts of a wooden window, such as the lower sash or the top of the upper sash. If the strips were installed snugly against the gap between upper and lower sashes, the movement of the window would pull it loose.
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Step 1: Clean entire surface to which weatherstripping is to be attached. Use dishwashing detergent and water, and make certain no dirt or grease remains. If pressure-sensitive weatherstripping had been installed previously, use petroleum jelly to remove any old adhesive. Dry surface with rags.
Step 2: Use scissors to cut strip to fit, but do not remove backing paper yet. Starting at one end, slowly peel paper backing as you push sticky foam strips into place. If backing proves stubborn at beginning, stretch foam until seal between backing and the foam breaks.
Pressure-Sensitive Felt
Felt is one of the old standbys and is very economical. It comes in a variety of widths, thicknesses, qualities, and colors (brown, gray, and black). To apply pressure-sensitive felt, follow the same steps as you would to attach pressure-sensitive foam. Felt strips also come without the adhesive backing, but this type must be nailed into place.
Spring-Metal Weatherstripping
Spring-metal strips (V-shape or single) are available in bronze, copper, stainless-steel, and aluminum finishes. Most manufacturers package spring-metal weatherstripping in rolls, and they include the brads necessary for installation. Although this kind of weatherstripping seems like a simple installation, it does require patience.
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Step 1: Position vertical strips so flared flange faces outside. Center strip should be mounted to upper sash with flare aimed down, while other horizontal strips are mounted to top of upper sash and bottom of lower sash with flared flange facing out. Using snips, cut spring-metal weatherstripping to size. Be sure to allow for window pulley mechanisms.
Step 2: Attach strips to window frame. Position strip properly and note any hinges, locks, or other hardware that might interfere. Trim away metal where needed. Then trim ends of strip at an angle where vertical and horizontal strips meet. Tap in one nail at top and one nail at bottom of strip. Do not put in more nails and do not drive top and bottom nails all the way in. Since some vertical strips do not come with nail holes, you may have to make pilot holes with an ice pick or awl.
Step 3: Check to make sure strips are straight and properly positioned. Then drive nail in center of strip -- but, again, only partway. Add more nails between starter nails. To avoid damaging strip, never drive any of the nails all the way in with hammer. Instead, drive nails flush with nail set.
![]() Flare the edge of a spring-metal strip with a screwdriver to render a snug fit. |
Self-Sticking Spring Metal
Self-sticking spring metal has a peel-and-stick backing. These are like standard spring-metal strips, but they are far easier to install. This type of weatherstripping works best on wood-framed windows. Here's how to install this self-sticking spring metal weatherstripping:
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Step 2: Put strips in place without removing backing paper, and mark spots for trimming (for example, indicate hardware points and where vertical and horizontal strips meet).
Step 3: Peel off backing at one end, and press strip in place, peeling and pressing as you work toward other end.
Felt Weatherstripping
Felt is one of the old standbys and is very economical. It comes in a variety of widths, thicknesses, qualities, and colors (brown, gray, and black).
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Step 1: Measure and cut felt to fit window. Keep in mind that felt strips can go around corners. Push material snugly against gap.
Step 2: Nail ends of each strip first, but do not drive nails flush; leave room to pry them out. Start at one end and drive a tack every 2 to 3 inches, pulling felt tight as you go. If you find slack when you reach other end, remove nail, pull to tighten, and trim off any excess.
Note: If possible, do this job on a warm day. The adhesive forms a better bond if applied when the temperature is at least 60 degrees Farenheit.
Pressure-Sensitive Felt
Follow the same steps you would to attach pressure-sensitive foam weatherstripping.
Tubular and Foam-Filled Gasket Weatherstripping
Generally, the only kind of weatherstripping that can be applied to metal windows is the pressure-sensitive type. Screws would go through the metal and impede movement of the window. To install, apply weatherstripping to top of upper sash (if it is movable) and to bottom of lower sash. These are usually the only spots where metal windows allow for air movement. If you find any other gaps, attach a vinyl tubular gasket to the area with a special adhesive formulated to hold vinyl to metal.
Tubular gasket weatherstripping is made of extremely flexible vinyl. It is usually applied outside where it easily conforms to uneven places. Foam-filled tubular gasket weatherstripping includes a foam core in the tubular part of the gasket. The foam provides extra insulating qualities and extra strength. Both types should not be painted.
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Step 1: Begin by measuring strips and cutting them to size with scissors. Cutting all strips for window at one time will save you trips up and down ladder later on.
Step 2: Position each strip carefully and drive nail into one end. Space nails every 2 to 3 inches, pulling weatherstripping tight before you drive each nail.
Most metal windows are grooved around the edges so the metal flanges will interlock and preclude the need for weatherstripping. Sometimes, though, gaps do exist, and you must apply weatherstripping in such instances.
On the next page, we'll discuss techniques for installing different types of weatherstripping onto doors and sliding windows.



