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Introduction to How to Repair a Washing Machine
Because washing machines do so many things, they may be harder to diagnose than they are to repair. This is due to the special timing cycles that operate valves and motors that turn water on, spin the tub, drain water, and control the water temperature. But diagnosis is possible: All it takes is common sense and patience. In this article, we will tell you where to look for trouble in your washing machine and how to make some quick repairs if a part malfunctions. After we get a few preliminaries out of the way, we'll dive right in to some diagnostic checks for your washing machine.Note: Many newer washers include electronic diagnostics that can be interpreted from the owner's manual.
Caution: Before you do any work on a washer, make sure it's unplugged. Disconnect the grounding wire and the water hoses.
Basic Operating Checks
Here are some initial steps to help you diagnose and fix washer problems.
Step 1: Make sure the washer is receiving power. Check the cord, the plug, and the outlet. If a wall switch controls the outlet, make sure the switch is working. Look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel. If the unit is receiving power and still won't run, press the reset button on the control panel (if the washer has one).
Step 2: Make sure the control knob is properly set to the ON position and the door is tightly closed. Check the latch to make sure it's free of lint and soap buildup.
Step 3: Make sure that both water faucets are turned on and that the drain and soap-saver return hoses are properly extended, without kinks. If the washer has a water-saver button, make sure the button is depressed; water may not circulate through the filter nozzle if the basket is not full and the button is not depressed.
Step 4: To make sure the water is the proper temperature, check the temperature selector switches on the control panel to make sure they're properly set. Also check the water heater temperature control. It should be set no lower than 120 degrees F.
 ©2006 Publications International, Ltd. A washing machine has a tub and an agitator; various cycles control the water temperature. Problems can occur in either the electrical or the plumbing systems. See more images of washing machines. |
Regularly clean the top and door of the washer to prevent the buildup of dirt and detergent. When you wash very linty materials, remove lint from the tub after removing the laundry. Soap deposits may cause laundry to smell bad. To solve this problem, fill the tub with water and add 1 pound of water softener or 1 gallon of white vinegar; then run the machine through the complete wash cycle. If the deposits are really bad, wash the inside of the tub with a solution of household ammonia and mild detergent. Rinse thoroughly and wipe the tub with liquid bleach. Caution: Rinse the tub thoroughly before wiping it out with bleach. Ammonia and bleach can combine to form a very dangerous gas.
Finally, run the machine through a complete wash cycle before you put any more laundry in.
Disassembling the Washer
The washer cabinet usually must be disassembled for repairs and some maintenance. The washer is connected to both the electric power outlet and to the water supply. Caution: Make sure the power cord and water hoses are disconnected before you disassemble the cabinet or tip it over for service. To disassemble a washer:
Step 1: To remove the control panel, remove retaining screws spaced around the panel. They are usually located under a piece of molding or trim that can be pried off. On some machines, you'll have to remove the back of the control panel, also held by retaining screws, to get at the working parts of the controls. Knobs on the control panel are usually friction-fit and will pull off. Some knobs are held by small setscrews at the base of the knob. Loosen the setscrews with a screwdriver or Allen wrench and pull the knobs straight off the shafts.
Step 2: To remove the service panel, remove its retaining screws, then spread an old blanket on the floor to protect the washer's finish. Make sure the machine and hoses are drained of water. Tip the washer over on its front or side to gain access through the bottom of the machine. The bottom of the machine generally doesn't have a service panel because it is usually open.
Step 3: To remove the top of the cabinet, insert a stiff-bladed putty knife into the joint between the top and side panels and give the knife a rap with your fist. This should release the spring clips so that the top can be removed.
Part of what makes washers so hard to repair is that they have so many control devices (components that control other functions, such as switches and timers). In the next section, we will learn how to repair or replace these parts.
Servicing Washing Machine Switches and Timers
Unlike a toaster, which performs the exact same function over and over, washing machines run through elaborate cycles with multiple settings. The devices that control these cycles can occasionally fail. Here's how to repair some of the common switches and timers.Servicing the Lid Switch
The lid switch on a washer often serves as a safety switch. If the switch is not working, or if the switch opening in the lid is clogged with detergent, the machine will not run. To check and repair the lid switch:
Step 1: Unplug the machine. Clean out the lid switch port with a wood manicure stick or chopstick. Clean off any detergent buildup around the rim of the lid. Sometimes there's enough detergent encrusted on the metal to prevent the lid from closing tightly and keep the washer from operating.
Step 2: If cleaning doesn't help, remove the top of the cabinet to get at the switch. With the switch exposed, check the screws for looseness. Loose screws can cause the switch to move when the lid is closed or as the machine goes through its cycles. Check the terminals of the switch to make sure they're tight. Tighten the mounting screws after the switch is in alignment.
Step 3: Test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; procedures for using the VOM are detailed here. Disconnect the power leads to the switch terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. Close the lid of the washer. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If not, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 4: If necessary, replace the lid switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch in exactly the same way the old one was connected.
Step 5: If the switch still doesn't work, it is probably misaligned. Realign the switch by repositioning the screws holding it in place, testing the switch as you go until it works properly.
Servicing the Temperature Selector Switch
This control panel switch regulates the temperature of the water in the tub. It also plays a role in controlling the fill cycle. If you suspect this switch is faulty, remove it and take it to a professional service person for testing (the test takes special equipment). Or, hook a test wire across the switch terminals; if water flows, the switch is faulty. If the switch is faulty, replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.
If there's a problem with both water temperature and tub filling cycles, both the temperature switch and the timer may be faulty. Test both components and replace them as necessary. Procedures for testing the timer can be found below.
Servicing the Water Level Control Switch
This is another control panel switch, usually located next to the temperature switch. There is a small hose connected to this switch, and sometimes this hose becomes loose and falls off the connection. When this happens, the water in the tub usually overflows. To solve this problem, cut about 1/2 inch off the end of the hose and use a push fit to reconnect it to the switch.
The switch itself can also malfunction, resulting in tub overflow and other water-level trouble in the tub. If you suspect this switch is faulty, remove it by backing out the screws holding it in place. Take it to a professional service person for testing. If the switch is faulty, replace it with a new one of the same size and type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.
Servicing the Timer
Most washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new timer yourself.
Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull a wire by hand.
Step 2: To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 3: To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into place.
In the next section, we will examine two of the most crucial elements of a washing machine -- the water inlet valves and the agitator.
Servicing the Valves, Tub and Agitator
If your washer is overflowing or is excessively noisy, the tips on this page may be able to solve your problem.Servicing Water Inlet Valves
If the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced. To check the valve assembly:
 ©2006 Publications International, Ltd. If an inlet valve is faulty, check the water connection and the valve screens. Try gently tapping the solenoids; if this doesn't work, replace the inlet valve assembly. |
Step 2: Remove the hoses connected to the valves inside the cabinet. Also disconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws holding the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoids (a coil of wire that carries a current) inside the housing. These can be tested, but chances are the valves are simply worn out.
Step 3: Tap the solenoids with a screwdriver handle. If this doesn't work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly. Repairs usually cost more than a new part. Make sure the replacement valve assembly is exactly the same type as the old one. Install it in reverse order of the way you disconnected the old one.
Servicing the Tub and Agitator
 ©2006 Publications International, Ltd. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one of the same type. Unscrew the cap on top of the agitator and pull straight up; the agitator should lift off. |
If laundry is torn during the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If this doesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness -- the tub should be replaced. In this case, it's probably much wiser to replace the entire washer.
The agitator -- the finned part that fits on the tub shaft -- can also tear laundry if the fins are cracked or broken. You may be able to solve the problem temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers and lightly filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the agitator should be replaced. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one of the same type. To do this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator. With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it should lift off. If it doesn't move, rap its side with a hammer. If it still won't lift off, drive wedges under the bottom rim of the agitator to dislodge it. Then set the new agitator into place and replace the agitator cap.
Damage to the snubber, a padlike device sometimes located under the agitator cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap and examine the snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pad is visibly worn, replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be found at the splash guard at the top of the tub, under the transmission, or as part of the water pump housing. Look around until you see it.
If the machine doesn't have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between the tub and the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pads that may need replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to be replaced. Another noise point is the basket support nut. Tighten the nut or, if you can't tighten it, replace it.
Sudden tub stops can be caused by a broken motor belt, but they are usually due to poor tub loading. Check to see if wet laundry is wadded around the bottom of the tub shaft, or under the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the basket or agitator in order to remove the laundry easily.
We will conclude our tour of the washing machine on the next page with tips for servicing the water pump, the belts and pulleys, and the motor.
Servicing Water-Related Problems, Belts, Pulleys, and the Motor
On this page we will explore some of the more mechanical parts of a washing machine like belts, pulleys and the motor. First, we have some tips for water-related problems.Troubleshooting Water Leaks
Water leaks in a washer are often difficult to trace. There are many possibilities to look for. The problem could be a loose connection, a broken hose, a cracked component, or a defective seal. It could also be a hole in the tub. If a hole in the tub is the problem, it's usually best to replace the washer.
Most leaks can be eliminated by tightening water connections and replacing deteriorated components. To stop a leak:
Step 1: Check the lid seal. If faulty, replace with a new gasket.
Step 2: Check the hoses at faucet connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 3: Check the hoses at water valve connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 4: Check the drain hoses. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 5: Check the inlet nozzles. Tighten connections or replace nozzles.
Step 6: Check the splash guard. Tighten connections or replace.
Step 7: Check any plastic valve. Tighten connections or replace.
Step 8: Check the outlet hose to drain. Tighten connections or replace hose.
Step 9: Check the water pump, using the procedures that follow.
Servicing the Water Pump
Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to fix the problem:
 ©2006 Publications International, Ltd. Take the pump apart and clean away all debris inside the pump. Also clear away debris from the water tubes. |
Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.
Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.
Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer.
Step 5: You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller. Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of the same kind.
Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.
Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.
Replacing Drive Belts and Tightening Pulleys
The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:
Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.
Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.
Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.
Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.
Servicing the Motor
In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.
There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won't work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.
Servicing a washing machine can be a frustrating home repair project. Because a washer has so many different cycles and functions it's not always apparent what exactly is going wrong. With the troubleshooting tips in this article, you should be cranking out loads of clean laundry in no time.
©Publications International, Ltd.