Stenciling Tools

Most stenciling supplies can be found at local craft and hobby stores, though you might need to check a hardware or home improvement store for tools such as a level, plumb line, or tape measure if these items aren't already stocked in your toolbox.

A wide variety of detailed stencils, high-quality brushes, and other accessories can be found in stencil catalogs as well as online.

Single-overlay stencil
A single overlay stencil is made up of one layer.

Stencils
Stencils are typically made from a stiff plastic called Mylar (a material that's sturdy enough for repeated use and that cleans up easily), though brass, coated paper, and acetate can also be used. They come in two basic types: single overlay and multiple overlay. This simply refers to the number of stencils required to get a complete image.

A single-overlay stencil is made up of one layer. These designs are usually simple and have obvious spaces, called bridges, between each part of the image. The bridges create distinct shapes that make up the design; without them, you would see just one big shape and no details.

Although pictures that are created with a single-overlay stencil will never be completely realistic, these are good stencils for the beginner. They are easy to apply, allowing you to develop a working technique. As your skills advance, you can make even single-overlay stencils look more complicated by blending colors, free-hand­ing details, and masking off areas to separate colors for a more realistic effect.

Multiple-overlay stencil
Color is added one layer at a time
with a multiple-overlay stencil.

Multiple-overlay stencils allow for more realism because painted areas butt right up against each other rather than being separated by bridges. One single design is cut on multiple stencil sheets, as the name implies, with different areas on each over­lay. Color is added one layer at a time until the image is complete. The size and detail of the image determine how many layers there are to the stencil. The overlays are matched up with registration marks.

Registration points
When marking registration points, make a mark
through each hole on the first overlay.

Registration marks are small holes in the sides of the stencil; make a pen or pencil mark through each hole on the first layer, then line the holes up with the marks on subsequent layers.

Stenciling brushes and applicators
Using a variety of paint brushes and applicators will
help you achieve different looks.

Brushes and applicators
Stencil brushes, the most common appli­cators, have short, stiff bristles of uniform length and come in a variety of sizes. Handles range from straight wood to plastic bulbs; find what's comfortable for you. You will need several brushes, ideally one for each color used. This keeps colors from becoming muddy and also speeds things up because you won't have to clean your brush between colors.

Match the size of the brush to the size of the area to be painted: Ideally, the brush should be about half the size of the area to be painted. This helps contain the paint in the correct areas without you having to mask the rest of the stencil.

If the whole design will be stenciled in one color, use a bigger brush, which allows you to work more quickly. But if you need to apply a specific color to one tiny area, use a smaller brush to keep the paint where you want it. Also use smaller brushes for adding shading and highlights.

To obtain different looks, experiment with other kinds of applicators. Sponges, which give a less filled-in look, may be cut down to a workable size. Rollers can speed up the project greatly, but they don't allow for subtle shading or detail. Cotton swabs, cotton balls, cheesecloth, sponge brushes, and spray paint provide unique looks as well.

Stenciling acrylic and oil paints
­You can use a variety of paints when working with stencils.
­

Tricks of the Trade
If you can't find the color you want in a fabric paint line, add a textile medium to regular acrylic paint

Paint

There are two basic kinds of paint used in stenciling: acrylic and oil. Acrylic paint cleans up with soap and water and comes in a wide variety of colors that can be easily mixed to make others. Acrylics dry quickly, so paint doesn't smud­ge easily. Shading is created by adding other colors on top of the base-­coat rather than blending the colors.

How­ever, because acrylic paint is very liquid, it is easy to get too much paint on the brush, causing see­page under the stencil. To keep brushes workable while stenciling with acrylic paints, load them with gel-blending medium and work them on paper towels to clean and soften.

Oil paint comes as crèmes and crayons. These take longer to dry, making them ideal for blend­ing and creat­ing smudgy shadows. They're less likely to run under the stencil because of their solid state, but they come in a smaller number of colors and cleanup is more difficult, requiring mineral spirits or brush cleaner.

You will need to stencil with oil-base paints on an object that has an oil-paint base-coat. Try to be as precise as possible when stenciling with oil paints, but if you do notice any smudges, you can do touch-ups with a white art gum eraser.

Adhesive

Tricks of the Trade
If you don't have painter's tape on hand, you can make standard masking tape a little less sticky by sticking it to your shirt before putting it on the stencil.

Before using a spray adhesive, make sure your work area is well ventilated.

Adhesive spray or painter's tape holds the stencil in place. Most of the time, tape is the easiest way to adhere a stencil. It's also useful for masking off areas of the stencil you don't want to paint yet. Low-adhesive tape works best, because it adheres well yet won't mar the surface or pull off the paint when it's removed. Keep plenty of low-adhesive tape on hand for every stenciling project.

Although re-positionable adhe­sive spray is a little more expensive, messier, and smellier than tape, certain situations call for its use. On a smooth, slick surface, for instance, spray adhesive can be helpful in keeping paint from seeping under the edges of the stencil. Spray adhesive is also ideal for stenciling on tricky or hard-to-reach areas such as ceilings or curved surfaces.

Paint palette
Paint colors should not touch on the palette; use a
paper towel to offload excess paint.

Palette
When stenciling with oil-base paints, you'll work out of the crème pots they come in. But when working with acrylics, you'll need to place the colors on a palette. Palette paper is sold in craft and art stores for this purpose, but paper or foam plates work just as well. You can also try a piece of mat-board or cardboard or even an ice cube tray. Just make sure that whatever you use is big enough to keep the colors separated.

Surface Issues
With proper preparation and the correct type of paint, almost any surface can be painted. Paint manufacturers are coming out with new formulas all the time, making it easier to carry a decor theme through on almost any item you wish. Here are a few of the different surfaces (other than walls!) you might paint on.

Glass and ceramics. Use paint meant for glass and tile. It comes in transparent colors for a stained-glass look as well as opaque shades. When stenciling glass dishware, paint the bottom of the plate or the outside of glasses rather than the surfaces food will come in contact with. Follow manufacturers' directions for setting the paint.

Fabric. Paints designed specifically for fabric will stay soft and wear better than regular paints. To stencil on fabric, use spray adhesive to adhere the stencil, and tape the fabric down well to your work surface. Put a piece of cardboard or waxed paper under the fabric or between the layers of a shirt to prevent the paint from soaking through. Build up color slowly, as the paint can wick under the stencil if you use too much. Follow manufacturers' directions for heat-setting the paint and washing the fabric.

Paper. Consider using inks or pigment dyes instead of paint to apply a stencil on paper. These are drier and won't soak into the paper as much. If you must use paint, try painting a base-coat first to stabilize the surface. Then stencil as usual.

Metal. There is a line of paint designed for use on metal without priming, but if you need a color not available in this metal paint, remember to prime the surface first. Otherwise, the paint won't stick.

Wax. To stencil on candles or soap, start with a special conditioner, then use paint developed specifically for this surface and follow manufacturers' directions.


Other tools
Depending on the project, there are a few other items that prove indispensable when stenciling. It would be wise to keep all of them on hand.
  • Art gum eraser. This is useful when working with stencil paint crèmes. Because these paints dry slowly, minor smudges and mistakes are easily wiped away with a white art gum eraser.
  • Artist's brushes. Use these small, thin brushes to add details like shadows or leaf veins.
  • Index cards. These make handy masking tools for small spaces.
  • Level. This common tool helps keep a bor­der straight.
  • Paper towels. Use them to wipe excess paint off brushes, to protect surfaces, and for general cleanup. It's a good idea to always keep a roll nearby while you're working.
  • Pencil. Use a pencil for marking level lines and registration marks.
  • Tape measure. Keep one on hand, or a ruler if you prefer, to determine the amount of space available for the stencil when planning projects.

Before you start your stencil project, you'll need to complete a very important step -- picking out the design you'll paint. Keep reading to learn about choosing a stencil design.

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