Hang uppers and add shelves

Mark a level line 18 in. above the countertop. This line marks the bottom of the upper cabinets just as your previous level line marked the lower cabinets. Then build a 17-7/8-in.-tall box from scrap wood to make installing the upper cabinets easier. Set each cabinet on this box and use shims to perfectly align the cabinet with the level line. Fasten and level the cabinets just as you did before.

Assemble the upper shelf on top of the cabinets. First cut 3/4-in. plywood into strips 17-1/4 in. wide. Screw ledgers between the cabinets and set the first layer of plywood over the cabinets with the best-looking side face down. Drive 1-1/4-in. screws up through the cabinets to fasten them. Then add the second layer and screw it to the first.

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Assembling the upper shelf on top of the cabinets

Cut the shelves that hang between cabinets from pine stair tread stock, which is a full 1 in. thick and won’t sag like particleboard shelves. Cut the shelves 1/4 in. shorter than the spaces between cabinets. Your backsplash can be as simple as a painted 1x4 nailed to the wall. Space the upright 1x2 supports every 4 ft. To avoid damaging the doors, hang them after the entire project is complete. Align the doors using the adjusting screws on the hinges, then attach the door pulls.

1. Level and screw 1x2 ledgers to the wall to support the base cabinets and keep them off the floor.

2. Set each cabinet on the ledger and screw it to studs. Hold a level against the front of the cabinet and level it with shims.

3. Drill shelf-support holes in the outsides of any cabinets that will support open shelves. Position the holes with a scrap of pegboard.

4. Lock adjoining cabinets together with cabinet bolts.

5. Cut countertops to width with the laminate side down to avoid chips and scratches. The entire system is based on standard wall cabinets. The countertop and upper shelf rest on the cabinets. Open shelves hang on adjustable shelf supports between cabinets.

6. Glue and screw plywood to the undersides of the countertops to strengthen them. Create a “half-lap” at corners by running plywood short on one side and long on the other.

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Solutions for any garage

Our garage had stud walls covered with drywall, but you can install this system in any garage. Here’s how:

If your garage has concrete block walls, follow the same steps we show, but use masonry screws to fasten ledgers and cabinets to the block. You’ll have to predrill holes with a hammer drill, so the project will take longer.

If you have bare stud walls, you could install this system as shown. But consider covering the wall with 3/4-in. plywood or OSB. That way, you can fasten ledgers and cabinets to the plywood; no need to locate studs.

If your garage walls are built on a protruding block or concrete curb that won’t allow you to mount cabinets near the floor, you can “fur out” the wall to create a flat surface. Screw horizontal 2x4s to the wall centered 24 in. apart, then screw 3/4-in. plywood to the 2x4s.

7. Spread glue on the half-lap joint and fit the mitered countertop sections together.

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Fitting the counterop

Fasten the countertops by driving screws up through the cabinets.

8. Support the upper cabinets with a homemade wood box. Adjust the cabinet height precisely with shims and screw it to the studs.

9. Build the upper shelf from two layers of plywood. Offset the joints and make sure all joints are over cabinets. Trim the shelf with 1x2.