How to Install Weatherstripping Onto Sliding Windows and Doors
Installing weatherstripping onto sliding windows and doors presents some unique challenges. We'll show you in this section how to solve the various problems associated with these tasks.Installing Weatherstripping Onto Sliding Windows
Sliding windows, those in which the sash moves laterally, come in both wood and metal frames. Weatherstrip the wooden frames much as you would a double-hung window turned sideways. If only one sash moves, weatherstrip it and caulk the stationary sash. For metal frames, follow the instructions for weatherstripping standard metal windows.
Special gaskets are designed for sealing gaps in jalousie and casement windows. To weatherstrip jalousies, measure the edge of the glass louver, cut the gasket to size with scissors, and snap the gasket in place. To weatherstrip casement windows, measure the edges of the frame, cut strips of gasket to size, miter the ends of the gasket strips where they will intersect, and slip the strips in place over the lip of the frame.
Double-hung wood windows almost always require weatherstripping, although if the top sash is never opened, you can solve an air leak problem by caulking to seal any cracks. You may find it advantageous to use more than one type of weatherstripping to complete the job. Be sure to follow the correct installation procedures for each type of weatherstripping.
Installing Weatherstripping Onto Doors
All four edges around a door can permit air to leak in and out of your house. In fact, the average door has more gaps than a loose-fitting window. Doors, moreover, don't run in grooves as windows do, so any crack area around a door is likely to be far greater than the area around a window. Weatherstripping your doors can seal those gaps, get rid of drafts, and help to reduce your heating and cooling bills. In this article, we'll review the various types of weatherstripping for doors and how to install them.
Before you start weatherstripping, inspect the door to be sure it fits properly in the frame opening. Close the door and observe it from the inside. Look to see that the distance between the door and the frame is uniform all along both sides and at the top. The distance does not have to be precisely the same all the way around, but, if the door rests crooked in the frame, weatherstripping may make it impossible to open or close. Naturally, if there is great variance in the opening between the door and frame, it will be difficult to fit weatherstripping snugly at all points, and gaps will result.
The cause of most door problems is the hinges. Therefore, the first thing to do is open the door and tighten all the hinge screws. Even slightly loose screws can cause the door to sag. If the screw holes have been reamed out and are now too big to hold the screws, you can use larger screws as long as they will still fit in the hinge's countersunk holes. If even the larger screws won't work, pack the holes with toothpicks dipped in glue, and use a knife to cut off the toothpicks even with the surface. Now the screws have new wood in which to bite.
Sometimes the door must be planed off to prevent binding. If so, you can usually plane the top with the door still in place. Always move the plane toward the center of the door to avoid splintering off the edges. If you must plane wood off the sides, take the door off its hinges, plane the hinge side, and always move toward the edges.
Spring metal is quite popular for door weatherstripping. It works effectively when installed properly and is not visible with the door closed. In the packages designated as door kits, most manufacturers include the triangular piece that fits next to the striker plate on the jamb.
Applying spring-metal strips: Spring-metal strips (V-shape or single) are available in bronze, copper, stainless-steel, and aluminum finishes. Most manufacturers package spring-metal weatherstripping in rolls, and they include the brads necessary for installation. Although this kind of weatherstripping seems like a simple installation, it does require patience. Here's how to install spring-metal weatherstripping around a door:
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Step 2: Position side strips so flared flange almost touches door stop. Trim away metal where needed to accommodate any hinges, locks, or other hardware.
Step 3: Tap in one nail at top and one nail at bottom of each side strip. Do not put in any more nails, and don't drive top and bottom nails in all the way. If strips do not have prepunched holes, make pilot holes with ice pick or awl. Check to make sure side strips are straight and properly positioned.
Step 4: Drive nail in center of side strip but only partway in. Then add nails spaced at regular intervals between ends. To avoid damaging strip, never drive nails all the way in with hammer. Instead, drive nails flush with nail set. Repeat procedure for other side strip.
Step 5: Put top strip in last, and miter it to fit. Flare out edge of each strip with screwdriver to render snug fit.
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Step 1: Clean surface where strips are to be placed. Measure and cut strips to size with tin snips.
Step 2: Put strips in place without removing backing paper. Mark spots for trimming (for example, hardware points and where vertical and horizontal strips meet).
Step 3: Peel off backing at one end and press strip in place, peeling and pressing as you work toward other end.
Applying pressure-sensitive foam: Pressure-sensitive adhesive-backed foam is the easiest weatherstripping to apply, and it is quite inexpensive. Available in both rubber and plastic, adhesive-backed foam comes in rolls of varying lengths and thicknesses. When compressed by a door or window, the foam seals out the air.
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To install pressure-sensitive foam weatherstripping around doors:
Step 1: Select warm day to work, if possible. Adhesive forms a better bond if applied when temperature is at least 60 degrees Farenheit.
Step 2: Clean surface where weatherstripping is to be attached with detergent and water. Make sure no dirt or grease remains. If pressure-sensitive weatherstripping had been previously installed, use petroleum jelly to remove any old adhesive. Dry surface with rags.
 Seal the top and sides of a door with adhesive-backed foam weatherstripping. To install the foam, peel off the backing and stick the strip down. |
Step 4: Starting at one end, slowly peel paper backing as you push sticky foam strips into place. If backing proves stubborn at beginning, stretch foam until seal between backing and foam breaks.
Step 5: Attach strips on hinge side to doorjamb.
 Attach strips of pressure-sensitive foam on the hinge side of the doorjamb and on the doorstop. The adhesive backing on the foam will form a secure bond only when applied to a clean, grease-free surface. |
Creating a weathertight threshold: The gap at the bottom of the door is treated differently from the gaps on the sides and along the top. The wood or metal hump on the floor along the bottom of the door is called the threshold.
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Many of the metal types feature a flexible vinyl insert that creates a tight seal when the door closes against it. Other thresholds consist of one unit on the floor and a mating piece on the bottom of the door. These two pieces interlock to form a weathertight barrier.
Wooden thresholds often wear down to the point where they must be replaced. This is an easy installation, and there are many types of replacement thresholds from which to choose. Most are aluminum and come in standard door widths; however, if your door is not standard width, you can trim the aluminum threshold with a hacksaw. Here's how to install a replacement threshold:
Step 1: Remove old threshold. If it is wood, there are two ways to remove it. In most cases, you can pry it up after removing doorstops with small flat pry bar or putty knife, but you must work carefully and slowly. If jamb itself rests on threshold, saw through old threshold at each end.
Use backsaw placed right against jamb, and saw down through threshold, being careful not to scar floor. Once you make cuts, threshold should be easy to pry up. If prying doesn't work, use chisel and hammer to split piece. Metal thresholds are frequently held down by screws concealed under vinyl inserts. Once you remove screws, threshold will come up easily.
 A door sweep can create a tight seal when a gap exists between the bottom of the door and the threshold. Door sweeps can be made of wood and felt, wood and foam, or metal and vinyl. All are effective in sealing out drafts. |
Step 3: Install door sweep to seal gap. Most sweeps are attached to inside of door with nails or screws. Cut sweep to size, and close door. Tack both ends of sweep to door, then install remaining nails or screws. If you are using screws, drill pilot holes first.
 A bottom sweep slides on over the bottom of the door; adjustment grooves adapt it to any door thickness. |
Weatherstripping and weather-proofing your doors -- and the rest of your home -- can help keep you comfortable when the weather is inclement. And the good news is that you can make these improvements to your home without having to call a professional.
