When you think about cooling a hot building, you probably don't think of heat pumps. In fact, the words "air conditioner" are likely the first things that come to your head unless you're tight with your pennies. Then you might go with "window fans." As it turns out, a heat pump can both heat and cool, and in some applications, it's preferred to separate heating and cooling systems.
Simply put, a heat pump is a device that uses a small amount of energy to move heat from one location to another. Not too difficult, right? Heat pumps are typically used to pull heat out of the air or ground to heat a home or office building, but they can be reversed to cool a building. In a way, if you know how an air conditioner works, then you already know a lot about how a heat pump works. This is because heat pumps and air conditioners operate in a very similar way.
One of the biggest advantages of a heat pump over a standard heating ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) unit is that there's no need to install separate systems to heat and cool your home. Heat pumps also work extremely efficiently, because they simply transfer heat, rather than burn fuel to create it. This makes them a little more green than a gas-burning furnace. And they don't just heat and cool buildings. If you've ever enjoyed a hot tub or heated swimming pool, then you probably have a heat pump to thank. They work best in moderate climates, so if you don't experience extreme heat and cold in your neck of the woods, then using a heat pump instead of a furnace and air conditioner could help you save a little money each month.
Read on to get a glimpse of the innards of a heat pump.
Heat Transfer and Air-Source Heat Pumps
There are many different kinds of heat pumps, but they all operate on the same basic principle -- heat transfer. This means that rather than burning fuel to create heat, the device moves heat from one place to another. There's a key to making this all happen -- heat naturally flows downhill. This means that it tends to move from a location with a high temperature to a location with a lower temperature. Pretty simple. What a heat pump does is use a small amount of energy to switch that process into reverse, pulling heat out of a relatively low-temperature area, and pumping it into a higher temperature area. So heat is transferred from a "heat source," like the ground or air, into a "heat sink," like your home.
One of the most common types of heat pumps is the air-source heat pump. This marvel of modern technology takes heat from the air outside your home and pumps it inside through refrigerant-filled coils, not too different from what's on the back of your fridge. The air source variety is pretty basic, and you'll find two fans, the refrigerator coils, a reversing valve and a compressor inside to make it work.
And since you asked, here's how this kind of heat pump works:
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This system is more commonly known as an air-air heat pump, because it takes heat from outdoor air and transfers it to indoor air ducts. With the right kind of modifications, air-source systems can also work with other types of indoor heating systems.
The key to allowing the air-air heat pump to also cool is the reversing valve. This versatile part reverses the flow of the refrigerant, so that the system begins to operate in the opposite direction. So instead of pumping heat inside your home, the heat pump releases it, just like your air conditioner does. When the refrigerant is reversed it absorbs heat on the indoor side of the unit and flows to the outside. It's here that the heat is released, allowing the refrigerant to cool down again and flow back inside to pick up more heat. This process repeats itself until you're nice and cool.
Air-Source, Ground-Source, and Absorption Heat Pumps
By now, you've learned that air-source heat pumps use an outdoor fan to bring air over refrigerant-filled coils. Two sets of these coils transfer this heat indoors, where it's then blown away from the coils by a second fan, and distributed through your home as cool goodness. Some air-source heat pump systems consist of a single packaged unit containing both sets of coils in one box. This box is then installed on the roof of a building with the ductwork extending through the wall. You'll see a lot of larger systems for commercial buildings installed in this way. Home heat pumps are usually split systems with an outdoor and an indoor component installed through the wall. Depending on the type of system, there may be one or more indoor components to distribute heat.
Ground-source heat pumps are a little different. They absorb heat from the ground or an underground body of water and transfer it indoors, or vice versa. The most common type of ground-source heat pump transfers heat directly from the ground by absorbing it through buried pipes filled with water or a refrigerant. These liquid-pumping pipes can be either closed-loop or open-loop systems, and they operate pretty much exactly how they sound. In a closed-loop system, the same refrigerant or water circulates through the pipes repeatedly. In an open-loop system, water is pumped out of the underground water source, like a well or a man-made lake. From there, the heat is extracted from the water, and that water returns to the well or surface lake. More water is then pumped from the well to extract more heat in a continuous open loop.
If that's not enough to blow your mind, consider theabsorption heat pump -- air-source pumps that are powered by natural gas, solar power, propane or geothermal-heated water, rather than by electricity. Absorption pumps can be used for large-scale applications, but are now available for homes on the larger side. The main difference between a standard air-source heat pump and an absorption pump is that instead of compressing a refrigerant, an absorption pump absorbs ammonia into water, and then a low-power pump pressurizes it. The heat source then boils the ammonia out of the water, and the process starts all over again.
When you go to check out an absorption heat pump, it helps to know how they're rated. Manufacturers rate them using a measurement called a coefficient of performance (COP), which sounds pretty complicated. All you need to know is to look for a COP above 1.2 for heating and above 0.7 for cooling. And don't worry, we'll discuss ratings for standard heat pumps a little later.
Air-source, ground-source and absorption heat pumps are the most common kinds of heat pumps, but they won't work in every situation. Read on to learn about special kinds of heat pumps.
Other Kinds of Heat Pumps
If your home doesn't have air ducts to distribute heat, don't fear. You could potentially use a special kind of heat pump called a mini-split heat pump. The cutest of all heat pumps, it connects an outdoor air-source unit to multiple indoor units. These indoor units connect to water heat or space heaters. These ductless mini-split systems are useful for retrofitting a home with a heat pump system because their locations outside and inside the home are flexible. Another plus is that the installation only requires a 3-inch (7.6 centimeter) conduit to come through the wall, which is pretty unobtrusive. They're also versatile. The indoor air handlers can be installed in walls, ceilings or on the floor, and they're small to boot.
And who can forget the reverse cycle chiller (RCC) heat pump? Instead of heating and cooling air, this bad boy heats and cools water, and can operate efficiently in below freezing temperatures. In an RCC system, the heat pump connects to an insulated water tank that it either heats or cools. Then, a fan and coil system pump heated or cooled air away from the tank and through the ductwork to one or more heating zones. An RCC system can also pump hot water through a radiant floor heating system, so when those bare feet are comfy on a toasty tile floor this winter, you can thank your RCC.
In a typical air-source heat pump, there's the need for a backup burner to supply temporary heat when the system switches into reverse to defrost the coils. This backup burner prevents the system from blowing cold air through the registers while the coils defrost, which is key if your goal is to stay warm. Some might say that the RCC system is superior in that it uses the hot water from the tank to defrost the coils, so no backup burner is needed. This also means the system never blows cold air when it shouldn't, and the result is that you stay nice and warm.
A new type of heat pump showing promise for extreme climates is the Cold Climate heat pump, which operates efficiently at extremely low temperatures -- even below 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 degrees Celsius). The Cold Climate heat pump detects the minimum amount of energy needed to provide the desired level of heating or cooling and adjusts its output up or down, so it never wastes energy. It's an extremely green alternative, but is still in its early stages of implementation because of delays in funding, which slowed research. In 2011, Canada invested $4 million in Cold Climate heat system development.
The All-Climate heat pump is yet another new kind of pump, which can operate in temperatures as cold as -30 degrees Fahrenheit (-34 degrees Celsius) and can increase efficiency by up to 60 percent over a standard heat pump [source: EERE]. The All-Climate heat pump is designed primarily for heating, though, and won't work efficiently in climates where the heat pump would be in cooling mode most of the time.
Even special heat pumps have limitations. Read on to learn about the pros and cons of heat pumps, and what you need to know before buying one.
Pros and Cons of Heat Pumps
Heat pumps can help consumers save on utilities, but they have limitations. First, they tend to be somewhat ineffective in any climate where the outdoor air temperature falls near or below freezing on a regular basis, although innovators are working to improve upon this. This is because moving heat from a very cold area to a hotter one takes more energy than moving heat between two areas with a more moderate temperature difference. There's also more heat available outside in a moderate climate than in a cold climate. It's important to note that even in a cold climate, there's still heat in the outside air to be pumped indoors, but the unit needs to work harder to extract the heat that's available. Supplemental energy may be required to make the heat pump produce enough warmth to comfortably heat your home when the temperature falls below freezing, and that's no good.
The heat produced by heat pumps isn't as intense as the heat produced by a gas or oil-burning furnace. People who are used to traditional furnaces can be uncomfortable with the milder heat produced by these systems. Other people prefer the warmth produced by heat pumps, because heat pumps distribute heat evenly throughout the house, meaning there are no cold spots. A heat pump will also turn on and off less often than a gas furnace, and most systems have eliminated the blowing of cold air through the vents that used to occur when the system temporarily switched into reverse to defrost the coils.
Before you install a heat pump, you'll need to consider what kind of supplemental or backup heating you may need to use when the heat pump can't work efficiently. Many heat pumps use supplemental electrical heating, but you might also use some kind of oil burner or an adapted gas furnace. Whatever type of heating system is common in your area is likely the most efficient and cost-effective backup method. You can always call your local utility company for information.
Ground-source heat pumps are better dehumidifiers than normal air conditioners, because these systems typically have a larger, flat return coils that conditions and dehumidifies more air than the corresponding coil in an air-conditioning system. Air-source heat pumps have about the same dehumidifying capabilities as air conditioning systems. If you have any humidifying or dehumidifying needs, take this into consideration.
Now that you know the pros and the cons of heat pumps, read on to learn what to look for when you buy a heat pump.
What to Look for in a Heat Pump
When you start shopping for a heat pump, there are a few things you need to look for. First, manufacturers rate the efficiency of most heat pumps in two ways: SEER and HSFP ratings. Higher SEER and HSFP ratings indicate a more efficient unit.
- SEER stands for seasonal energy efficiency rating, and is a ratio of how much energy (measured in BTUs) is pumped outside in cooling mode divided by the electricity used (in watts) for cooling. Look for a SEER rating between 14 and 18.
- HSFP stands for heating seasonal performance factor. It calculates the ratio of energy pumped indoors for heating to energy used for heating, but it's a more complicated equation than the SEER rating because it also takes into account supplemental heating needs and the energy used to defrost the unit. Look for an HSFP rating between 8 and 10.
Heat pumps often feature options that make them more efficient. These include:
- A desuperheater coil that heats water by recycling waste heat (or on an RCC system, a refrigerant heat reclaimer that also uses the pump's extra capacity to heat water during mild winter weather).
- Dual-mode compressors and motors that save energy by adjusting up or down according to the level of heating or cooling needed.
- Scroll compressors that are quieter, more efficient and last longer than traditional compressors.
Though many of these features can only be found on more expensive heat pumps, they make up for the initial expense by helping heat pumps work more efficiently and save more energy throughout the pump's life.
So you now know how to buy a heat pump, but will it really save you money?
Do Heat Pumps Save You Money?
The cost to install and run different kinds of heat pumps varies quite a bit. Geothermal heat pumps are more expensive to install than air-source heat pumps, as much as three times as much, because ground-source pumps require you to dig down to a heat source and involve more complex heat transfer systems. That can get a little pricey depending on the terrain on your property. Expect to pay as much as $5,000 to $7,500 for a ground-source heat pump system. Air-source heat pumps can be found for much cheaper, averaging around $1,500 to $4,000, because the units tend to be simpler, and installation is easier.
The cost required to run and repair a heat pump varies with the type of system. It's less expensive to run a ground-source heat pump because the ground and water have a relatively constant temperature that allows the heat pump to operate efficiently. Ground-source systems also have the advantage of not being exposed to the outdoor weather, which prevents a lot of wear and tear. On the downside, they can be costly to repair if you need to access an underground portion of the system. Air-source systems are easy to access and service, but they may need more regular maintenance because they're exposed to the elements. Also, air-source heat pumps may use more supplemental energy to run, especially in colder climates, and this will cost you more on your utility bill.
Heat pumps may save you anywhere between 30 and 40 percent or more on your utility bill, but neglect will reduce a heat pump's efficiency over time [source: EERE]. It's important to factor in the climate where you'll be using the heat pump to make sure you select a system that can run efficiently in your area. In the end, heat pumps can save you a lot of money on utilities if you're a good candidate and you install the right kind of pump for your area.
Read on to find out the cost of running and repairing your new heat pump.
Heat Pump Maintenance
If you use your heat pump on a regular basis, you should change the filter about once a month. You could probably get away with only changing the filter once every three months if you only run the unit periodically. Keep fans and coils clean and free from debris, and have your heat pump inspected by a professional once every year or two.
Common problems with heat pumps include low airflow, leaky or noisy ducts, temperature problems, using the wrong refrigerant charge, rattles, squeaks and grinding noises. If you can, try to isolate the location of the problem. Is the airflow only low coming out of one register, or do all registers have low airflow? Is the offending noise coming from the air ducts or within the heat pump unit itself?
There are a few things you can do to identify and possibly fix a heat pump problem before calling for professional help. First, if the unit isn't working, try resetting its motor. Check the pump ignition system for problems, and make sure you don't have a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse. Check the thermostat to make sure it's working properly. Change the filter if it's dirty, and make sure there are no airflow blockages. If the air ducts are making noise when they expand and contract, you could try putting a dent in the side of the duct to make the surface more rigid. Rattles may be fixed by fastening loose parts, and if you're hearing squeaks inside the unit, you may need to replace or adjust the fan belt connecting the motor and the fan. A grinding noise may indicate that the bearings on the motor are worn out, which will require the help of a professional to fix.
Keep in mind that if you aren't mechanically inclined then you probably shouldn't attempt to do this kind of repair work. And because heat pumps can contain hazardous materials, that's another good reason to get some professional assistance. A chemical leak is bad news and you can easily injure yourself handling a broken device.
A heat pump should last between 10 and 30 years, with geothermal units leading the way in longevity. In fact, some components of ground-source heat pumps can last even longer. Keep in mind that technology may change before your heat pump has worn out, so you may find your heat pump outlasts a technician's ability to service it. New technologies may make heat pumps safer or more efficient, so you may wish to keep an eye out for new kinds of heat pumps.
To learn more about heat pumps, check out the links on the next page for lots more information.
More Great Links
- Ask the Builder. "Heat Pump Facts." 8/21/2008. http://www.askthebuilder.com/B294_Heat_Pump_Facts.shtml
- BGE. "How Heat Pumps Work." 8/6/2008. http://www.bge.com/portal/site/bge/menuitem.caa6f77e2c573a0021b08424025166a0/
- Cost Helper. "Heat Pump Cost." 11/2007.http://www.costhelper.com/cost/home-garden/heat-pump.html
- Enercom. "Heat Pumps." 8/6/2008.http://www.energyright.com/heatpump/index.htm
- Energy Star. "Air-Source Heat Pumps." 8/7/2008. http://www.energyright.com/heatpump/index.htm
- Energy Star. "Geothermal Heat Pumps." 8/7/2008. http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=geo_heat.pr_geo_heat_pumps
- Environmental Protection Agency. "What You Should Know About Refrigerants When Purchasing or Repairing a Residential A/C System or Heat Pump." 6/3/2008. http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/title6/phaseout/22phaseout.html
- Heat Pump Centre. "Heat Pumps in Industry." 6/30/2008. http://www.heatpumpcentre.org/About_heat_pumps/HP_industry.asp
- Home Tips. "Heat Pumps." 8/6/2008.http://www.hometips.com/heatpumps-airsource.html
- Home Tips. "Heat Pump Repairs." 8/6/2008. http://www.hometips.com/cs-protected/guides/heatpumpfix.html
- Michigan Energy Services. Personal interview. Conducted 8/21/2008. http://www.energypath.com/
- NZPA. "Heat pumps blamed for power bill rise." The New Zealand Herald, 8/1/2008. http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/1/story.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10524722
- Wheeler, Jim. "How Heat Pumps Work." HGTVPro.com, 8/6/2008. http://www.hgtvpro.com/hpro/dj_technology/article/0,,HPRO_20157_4074516,00.html
- U.S. Department of Energy. "Heat Pump Systems." 9/12/2005. http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12610